The way we wore: Burda Moden 1988

13/10/2011

Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
So have you heard of Burda Moden? It was the fashion magazine every Russian woman used as the most reliable reference when it came to style, whether it was wardrobe ideas, home deco, beauty or cooking. Burda came to us in 1987 like some exotic present from Western Germany, a glorious glossy dream from the country of plenty to the country of deficit (of everything). It was expensive (5 roubles an issue and an average salary was 150 roubles) and impossibly difficult to buy. It was literally a treasure.

A copy would move from household to household, usually wrapped in a plastic cover to prevent any damage. The recipes and beauty advice would be copied by hand, every diet – adjusted to suit the availability of the fresh produce, exercise routines – tried and tested (and God, did we dream of having those lycra leggings!) and the clothes… Well, the clothes part was relatively easy as many women could either sew or knit, so once a suitable fabric was found, the clothes could become a wearable reality.

We had a few of our own Burda issues and, as a little girl, I constantly created long Wish lists mainly of outfits and shoes hope that one day I will get a chance to wear something like this. I also prepared some of the foods and DIY’ed extensively.

When I came across a folder with pages torn out of Burda circa 1987-1990 I felt nostalgia sipping through my veins. I smiled for it brought sweet memories.

The blog seemed to be a perfect place for storing the scans, and sharing a few personal stories as well as fashion designs and articles from the past. I’ll start these new “The Way We Wore” series today and continues over the course of several months, a story or so every four weeks. Of course, my Burda speaks Russian, but I will translate some of the relevant parts for you. Let me know what you think of all this.

Issue 4. November / Autumn 1988
Colour of the season: emerald. Blouses: from elegant to sporty. Fashion for mums-to-be. 8 designs for the city. Recipes: fruit and vegetable preserves. Plus: Sweaters. Crafts.
(my mum actually had this blouse made later and we shared it)

Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
A touch of emerald – just one touch is enough to make a simple houndstooth check coat look chic.

Wide trousers, loafers, emerald…
Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Feminine shapes, focus on waist, pastel colours and soft fabrics. A touch of burgundy or yellow. Must admit, that I’ve always loved these two looks.

Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Trend spotting: the tulip skirt that takes a day to make 

Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Red, military buttons, plaid… "The Alpine scene"

Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Business woman: olive and mix of pattern, polka dots on a jacket, stripes on pencil skirt. It was a part of "one pattern - eight designs"
Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
My favourite sweater out of the bunch from that issue. Notice the long silk plisse skirt.

Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Autumn ‘88 latest trends: feminine shapes in footwear (my mum actually had those boots), L’Oreal Elnett hairspray, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent – sensual, mysterious and incredibly feminine, fabric and leather colour dyes (never seen them, doubt will ever know what they were), Effekton hair colourants by Svoboda, Moscow, Byzance by Rochas perfume – delicate red rose, exquisite iris, carnation, vanilla and geranium combined with patchouli, sandalwood and musk, Pfaff sewing machine, new aftershave for men from Schwarzkopf.

Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Fashion world was talking about Paris fashion week, Spring 1989. Brief translation: Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, Lagerfeld, Montana, Mugler, Kenzo, Gaultier and other fashion designers showed their unique collections. Each consists of 30-50 looks. The models – only the best ones. Each collection is accompanied by music. The only exception is Yves Saint Laurent who prefers a silent performance. 3000-5000 people get to see it live. 

Sometimes fashion journalist and media have to see up to 10 shows a day. Their day begins early, at 10:30. From then the media pack has to rush from show to show that can take place anywhere – a night club, hotel and even palace. Shows never starts on time, so the crowd has to sit and wait for 30-60 minutes. The last show ends at 9 p.m. Then it’s time to take a break and grab a bite to eat. It costs between 30000 and 70 000 Deutsche marks to produce a fashion show, but it “must go on” no matter what.

Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
Burda Moden Russia issue no. 4 November 1988 /  via fashioned by love
So while the world is focusing on fashion in Paris, Russia is hosting its very first beauty contest, “Miss Moscow ‘88” sponsored by Burda Moden. Masha Kalinina, the 16-year old student from Moscow, who won the title was then sent to Germany for a Burda Moden photoshoot, then continued working as a model and eventually moved to LA where she now lives.

To be continued…

15 comments:

  1. I couldn't be happier about this new series, LittleRus! For several years I've been fascinated by the Russian magazines' fashion editorials and this gives me the chance to look into the beginnings of all that. xoxo

    ReplyDelete
  2. love this:) thank you for sharing :)

    ReplyDelete
  3. Little Rus, what a pleasure reading this post! Made me smile as well as Burda (well, the Italian edition) was a must in my mom's family. They all (but my mom...) shared a passion for knitting and they were great at making clothes. Beautiful memories!

    ReplyDelete
  4. It is a great post! I can't believe it! I had also a thing for fashion magazines, in the 90's, my parents had only a German magazine ;)) I remember the models and the clothes to be exactly the same...ohhh, how time goes by :D!

    ReplyDelete
  5. thanks for your comment .

    great post !

    I smile when I see or read young girls speaking about the 70th or 80th..... those where my days .

    ciao ave

    ReplyDelete
  6. omg the 80´s haha i love this post, my mum still reads burda but it is always great to see some really old issues;)
    love and kiss,mary

    http://maryloucinnamon.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete
  7. I love this - i remember Burda - this is so my era - and i still have my 25 year old Pfaff sewing machine - i moved to South Africa when 7 and magazines were so rare there too - banned if they showed half a nipple or had an essence of politics - the Burda and the British She were like gold dust - fab takes me back - looking forward to the rest x

    http://fashionandfrank.blogspot.com/

    Oh and thanks for the comment - i love the jkt but prob cant afford it at the mo - tell you what though if she can get me the sheep boots from last year - the high platform ankle ones - i would be in 777th heaven xxx

    ReplyDelete
  8. PS: there are some articles in my newly received Russian Vogue and Harper's Bazaar that seem so interesting, so I might accept your lovely invitation. ;)

    ReplyDelete
  9. Great post! I love looking at past fashion! It's cool to see things come back in style!

    xoxo Denise
    http://allthingsnew-denise.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete
  10. Oooh I love this new series of yours! It's so wonderful to get a glimpse of these magazines. Can't wait to read more!

    xo Mary Jo

    ReplyDelete
  11. This post has taken me down the memory lane. Good old Burda.
    Looking forward to the next installment of the series.

    ReplyDelete
  12. WOW, this is history! What a great way of preserving through blog posts. Thanks for sharing. :)
    http://sassyuptownchic.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete
  13. Oh...yes:-)*
    Dearest Little Rus....
    HOW fantas5tic is you post!!!
    I know all these magazines so good,OMG!
    All ideas and fashion for me was beyond great and I was immensly happy when I got the new one...
    Lovely memories,thank you so very much for share this:-)*

    Hugs and Love,
    ***Violetta***

    ReplyDelete
  14. I like so much your style!

    http://paquetevistasbien.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete
  15. that was interesting and much fun to read ;-)

    ReplyDelete