“Everyone needs aesthetic ghosts in order to live”
Yves Saint Laurent
Photo source: Vogue Italia March 2008
“The great change came when I discovered my own style… It was with the tuxedo jacket and the transparent blouse. I became conscious of the body and began dialogue with women, began to understand better what a modern woman wants.”
Yves Saint Laurent
The idea of un type parfait, or the perfect garment, was first explained by Yves Saint Laurent in 1978 during his interview with John Helpbern. The rule was simple: to design a type of garment, whether it is a blouse or a pair of trousers, that would encourage women to build the rest of their wardrobe around them, so she wouldn’t have to constantly change her wardrobe, but instead – update it with a few new items designed around the same basic prototype. His perfect never-go-out-of-style wardrobe was very minimalistic, but showed how a garment from 1962 could live in a happy visual harmony with something designed in 1968.
Pea jacket was a part of Spring 1962 collection. It looked like a feminine, softened version of a sailor’s jacket. With a widened cut and luxurious navy wool fabric, it was still a couture piece, but its functionality and gilt buttons make is feel more realistic. It could be worn with white sweater and trousers for a chic day time look or, in a slightly altered cut, combined with red, white or blue sequined dresses and a few accessories - for an afternoon out.
Tunic’s role was to lengthen the figure and hide the hips and fit to more or less every figure. It was a perfect accompaniment for long wide trousers. The look was adopted by millions of women all over the world.
Trench coat. Originally designed for Autumn/Winter 1962 collection, the coat was inspired by a garment worn by officers during WWI. Always short, above the knee, the Yves Saint Lauren’s version was made either of gabardine or navy blue jersey. The trench was immortalised after Catherine Deneuve wore the black version of the coat in Belle de Jour movie in 1966.
Loose-fitting blouse. The very first smock featured in Autumn/Winter 1962 collection was described as “a peasant’s shirt reworked as a flannel tunic that hung over the hips, creating a tubular effect.” The blouse was one of the most favourite Saint Laurent’s garments and was seen throughout his work in various forms.
Tuxedo (le smoking). An truly iconic piece that took the way women dress to a completely new level, a must-have and something everyone awaited to see at each fashion show, from 1966 to 2002. Saint Laurent used traditional men’s tailoring in a completely new way. His technique is what made the final design so unique and impossible to copy by other couturiers – something they tried on numerous occasions.
It was such a big hit, but also a very controversial design. For the first time, women wore trousers showing that they had rights and opinions. According to Maime Arnodin, a Parisian art director, “…wearing trousers at the time was absolutely revolutionary. Elle magazine run article after article on Yves Saint Laurent and his smokings, but it wouldn’t let its own journalists wear trousers to work. And Yves’s trousers were so beautiful.” Laurent Bacall said of Yves Saint Laurent trousers: “Of course, it’s Saint Laurent. If it’s pants, it’s Yves.”
The stilleto heel and dramatic jewellery were the perfect finishing touches whenever tuxedo was worn.
Safari jacket was a part of “a safari outfit” featured in the summer 1966 collection inspired by Saint Laurent trips to Morocco. The iconic piece was designed to appear in the July-August 1968 issue of Vogue magazine in an editorial featuring Veruschka photographed by Franco Rubartelli.
Jumpsuit. The most functional of them all, the one-piece pantsuit was inspired by uniforms of aviators and first shown during Spring 1968 collection. Saint Laurent often returned to this design giving it different looks, making it look like a second skin or baggy and varying the length and shape of the bottom part, from tuxedo inspired trousers to shorts with a drawstring belt.
Based on Yves Saint Laurent by Farid Chenoune
Photo sources: ?, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Fall 1977 Campaign, Harper’s Bazaar US December 1996, Vogue US July/August 1968
This time my fashion week is dedicated to one of the most amazing and influential designers in fashion history - Yves Saint Laurent. This campaign was chosen because, in my opinion, it perfectly reflected the elegant, luxurious and youthful essence of the brand as well as the vision of Saint Laurent, and showcasted some of the most beautiful pieces from a stunning collection designed by Stefano Pilati. The images are so strong, sensuous and mesmerising that they capture your attention like a magic magnet.
Photo source: Yves Saint Laurent Campaign Spring 2007
Weekend, weekend, so glad it’s here! Have you got any plans for weekend? A part of mine is writing a few fashion stories for next week as it’s time to tell you about yet another amazing fashion designer. Mr also suggested getting out for a walk, just us, no pupster, so we’ll see where we’ll find ourselves. All I know is that Jeffrey Campbell booties will be coming out yet again because they are simply the most comfortable in the world and perfect for walking.
Wishing you a wonderful weekend!
Photo source: Vogue US July 2006
First time I saw this editorial, it reminded me of the November mornings – the sun trying to get through a thick whipped-into-a-foam blanket of fog covering every inch of the world outside, turning the most ordinary objects into mysterious silhouettes that tease imagination.
Photo source: Vogue Nippon December 2011
On 21 November a second Camilla Morton’s book, Manolo Blahnik's the Elves and the Shoemaker: A Fashion Fairytale, was finally available. Of course, I had to order it not only because I’ve already got the first fairy tale, but because I simply wanted to own this very special and beautifully illustrated edition – it felt like living a magical moment all over again, going on an exciting journey with Manolo Blahnik, see his memories come alive and learning about yet another amazing person who made a huge impact on fashion history.
Now, the confession part: I bought two books. One – for me to keep, and the other one – to give one of you as a pre-Christmas present. If you like the sound of it, all you have to do is to leave a relevant comment under this post and be a follower of Fashioned by Love via Google FriendConnect (button on the bottom of this page) or Facebook.
The giveaway is open worldwide. The winner will be announced on 6 December 2011. Good luck!
Caudalie enzymatic peel mask. Got this little wonder last week to replace my favourite (but slightly more expensive) Elemis papaya enzyme peel. I’m very pleased with my decision because this mask actually gave me better results and I knew exactly what was in it – no parabens, no mineral oils or anything artificial.
The mask contains papaya enzymes (same as the Elemis one), plus glycolic acid and Viniferine. It’s creamy and smells beautiful.
After applying a small amount on a cleansed face and waiting for 10 minutes, my skin looked really (I mean, REALLY) smooth, brightened and wasn’t at all irritated or dry. It’s definitely a new favourite that I’ll be buying again and again and again.
A little bit of jazz, a little bit of blues, plenty of sensual piano accords are what you are going to find on a new double-disk Bottega Veneta Intreccio Uno compilation.
According to the information on Bottega Veneta website “the two-disk set and jewel case are designed by Maier himself and feature artwork by photographer Robert Longo. Each disk includes fifteen songs that have captured the imagination of Maier over the years and have been used in Bottega Veneta runway shows and store playlists. Discover a new favorite or re-visit an old one with this exquisitely-crafted pleasure.”
You can see the titles, have a listen and pre-order this super classy set on Bottega’s website. A must-have for anyone who appreciates Bottega Veneta and good music.
Photo source: bottegaveneta.com
I am on a binge. Reading it is, nothing else, nothing harmful. I’m currently in a blissful cloud created by words and images. This weekend I’m indulging big time. Of course, I am going to leave the cloud from time to time to live the ordinary life as required. Walk with pupster, do a big of shopping in my favourite Tunbridge Wells (I’m looking for a pair of sunglasses), check my favourite blogs, watch a movie or two with Mr, go for a drive, and let my mind go free from the fictional stories only to top up the gap with a few new ones.
The shoes I was so in love with got sold before they could have become mine. For days I went back to THE OUTNET for a quick look at my object of desire, but when the desire became too overwhelming for simple visuals and needed a physical presence I decided to go for it. On a fine morning, somewhere between ordering supplements for my clients and books for work and pleasure I sat in front of my pc, holding a credit card, waiting for the page to open. The shoes were no longer available. They were gone forever. I guess, there was a woman out there who wanted them more. C'est la vie.
Yesterday, however, I was glad that I still had the cash because I found a very special sweater – a Breton-style cashmere boat neck cream & navy dream designed I’ve been dreaming about for ages. Can’t wait to receive it and show you (I promise!).
Wishing you a wonderful weekend!
Photo source: Vogue Paris April 2004
As soon as I saw this editorial I knew I wanted to add it to my collection. It makes me wonder how wonderfully versatile can two basic colours be. It’s like a formula: black, white, heaps of costume jewellery, a kiss of red lipstick and a little chic Parisienne is born to shine.
Photo source: Vogue Paris October 2011
Following yesterday’s post I’ve decided to dedicated a few stories to Russian top-models because these girls created a completely new era when they became a part of the fashion world back in the 1990s and I really want you to learn more about them.
I remember her vividly. A very young girl featured in a popular morning show that I often watched while getting ready for my univesity lectures. That day a 10-minute interview with Vyacheslav Zaitsev, the most popular Russian fashion designer, was squeezed between an episode of ever-so-popular Twin Peaks and completely pointless beauty advice. After briefly speaking of his collections and perfume, Zaitsev introduced a young model who accompanied him. Her name was Natalia Semanova and she just won the most prestigious contest “Look of the year” hosted by Elite Model Agency.
The designer was particularly proud to announce the news because he was the one who discovered Natalia in 1992 when she came to his fashion house for a casting. Zaitsev saw something special in the 13-year old and she became one of his models. “She was perfect as if created by Botticelli,” – the designer said about Natalia in an interview.
The fashion world quickly fell in love with “Russian Cinderella”. Natalia was known as a true professional, a natural beauty who had grace of a princess, signature walk and was able to change her already unique look completely to suit an editorial.
Designers and photographers adored her. When Gianfranco Ferrè found out that she was too young to be in his fashion show (she was only 14 and legal requirement was 16), he made sure that she sat in a front row next to Sophia Loren. Jean Paul Gaultier gave her one of the most beautiful gowns that he created especially for Natalia’s wedding. Helmut Newton thought of her as one of his favourite models and photographed Natalia for Blumarine campaign. In 1999 she also became a face of Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium and later – Giorgio Armani when she was shot by yet another legend, Peter Lindbergh for one of the most elegant Armani campaigns.
She graced covers of Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Jalouse and D and starred in numerous campaigns that included Atelier Versace, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Valentino, George Rech, Biotherm, Guerlain, Swarowski, Saks Fifth Avenue and Galeries Lafayette and modelled for Alberta Ferretti, John Bartlett, Ralph Lauren, Diane Von Furstenberg, Giorgio Armani, Lolita Lempicka, Moschino, Givenchy, Gaultier, Valentino and John Galliano.
In 2001 Natalia got married. Her husband was a handsome booker from the model agency. They live in Paris. Natalia is represented by Elite Paris.
Photo sources: Elle Russia, Vogue Russia 1999, Vogue Germany June 1995, Blumarine Fall 1999, YSL Opium 1999, Giorgio Armani campaign, Valentino Fall 1998.