Emperor’s new clothes or am I going mad?

25/01/2013

 Juliana Imai wearing Dior by Galliano Fall/Winter 2010 in Numero China November 2010 (photography: John-Paul Pietrus
This blog was created to discuss and share all things beautiful, fashions that inspire and stories that preserve the past and the present. However once in a while I make an exception because I need to share the other kind of thoughts, get them out of my head, straight into the web-space that I made my own.

Over the last few months every time I saw another Dior fashion show and read a review that followed I felt like that little boy in the Andersen’s tale who seemed to be the only one seeing no real clothes. I had so many flash backs and noticed so many similarities in what Simons is currently presenting as his innovative designs that it hurt my eyes and made my heart cry for help, hope, anything... My mind was also struggling whenever I saw another interview or story praising “the new Era of Dior” and the house's new designer.

And the questions kept popping up in my head…

Look at the images below, look at the seasons they come from. If this is the future of Dior then why so many looks resemble Dior and even Jil Sander collections from the past? Is Simons even capable of designing for such a unique and historically important fashion house like Dior? Does he even have the gift of visualising fashion and making it evolve while preserving the legacy of the Maison, not blindly copying some of the past designs that made history? Or is his own imaginary world is, in fact, empty, just like that Emperor’s closet? And what is the real reason for the Dior bosses to keep him?

I know everyone deserves a second chance and creating one’s very first collection is always a challenge, but Simons had three attempts already and yet failed to impress and inspire. The feelings of emptiness and disappointment that come after each show have such a strong and bitter aftertaste that I no longer plan to think of Dior as one of the houses that’s worth talking about or falling in love with. It’s sad, but it’s true.

In his latest interview Simons said that with his latest collection he was hoping to “re-connect with the company's long-timers” (as if he can’t forget the effect Slimane’s collection had on the YSL audience – something he is yet to achieve). I am afraid if he continues the way he does, not only the old school will be gone forever, but the younger generation will also join them. I booked my one-way ticket already. You?

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013 (by Raf Simons = RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013 (by Raf Simons = RS)
Christian Dior Spring/Summer RTW Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Christian Dior Spring/Summer RTW Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 (RS)
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 (RS)
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2007 (RS)
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2007 (RS)

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)

Christian Dior RTW Spring/Summer 2013
Christian Dior RTW Spring/Summer 2013
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2009 (RS)
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2009 (RS)

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2008 (John Galliano = JG)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2008 (John Galliano = JG)

Christian Dior RTW Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Christian Dior RTW Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Christian Dior RTW Spring/Summer 2010 (JG)
Christian Dior RTW Spring/Summer 2010 (JG)

Christian Dior RTW Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Christian Dior RTW Spring/Summer 2013 (RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2005 (JG)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2005 (JG)
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 (RS)
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 (RS)

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012 (RS)
Christian Dior RTW Fall/Winter 2005 (JG)
Christian Dior RTW Fall/Winter 2005 (JG)

Now, part 2 of the Ballet of La Merlaison... Not only Simons arrived at Dior with a handful of designs from his Jil Sander days, he also brought yards and yards of the yellow fabric overstock... Every little helps, as they say.

Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2012
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2012
Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2012
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2007
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2007

And these are just a few examples – I’ll let you be the judge.

Photo source: Juliana Imai wearing Dior by Galliano Fall/Winter 2010 in Numero China November 2010 (photography: John-Paul Pietrus), other photos via style.com & sylebistro.com

86 comments:

  1. Very critical remark and super honest. I agree with you. Simon probably needs some time...I hope. Have a great weekend xoxo

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. He had plenty of time, especially compared to the other designers who worked for Dior in the past. Ferre had less than 3 months to design couture collection and he received an award for it, from people who initially didn't even want to see him as a Dior's creative. I guess, it's just like with anything - one is either good at something or not... xxx

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  2. I thought I was the only one who'd noticed this. I love, love Dior but with lately the collections have felt so one note, nothing different or innovative at all and with the images right up next to each, it really is evident that Simons can only do the same thing over and over again. (Which is a shame, I've always loved Dior's aesthetic and their gowns but it's so disappointing to see the same collection over and over.)

    Wow, re-looking over the images again, it really shows. Not ever an attempt at different shapes in the same colors, he really just does not branch out and it shocks me that Simons gets any praise for this. I always enjoy your posts so much because you have such a define point of view and I love that you will call it as you see it. (And you always find the best editorials, there are so many new ones that you've introduced me to!)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts and your kind words about my posts, Katie! x

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  3. when you mention that, yes, they kinda look similar :/

    Caroline
    Please feel free to join giveaway on my blog : $80 MsDressy Gift Voucher ^^
    http://missoline.com/

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  4. Interesting post, you´re good!
    Caroline

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  5. Love the yellow at Jil Sander
    www.rsrue.blogspot.com

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  6. I`m not quite at this point of disillusionment yet, but I must say I haven`t been impressed by any of the last Dior collections - I find the make-up and hairstyles more interesting than the clothes! You definitely aren`t the only one who feels this way. Here`s hoping Simons gets it together soon!
    xox,
    Cee

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    Replies
    1. I did like the hair very much, too. :) x

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  7. Maybe you are right. Just yesterday I was thinking to myself "who´s Dior new designer, anyway" For some reason, I failed to memorize it. After all the fuss with Galiano, it would be easy for anyone who replaced him to make a splash. Dior should always e about something else and special. Just my 2 cents here.

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    Replies
    1. Don't think it's an easy job to replace Galliano whose talen is so unique and one-off. There's absolutely no comparisons between the two. x

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  8. Замечательный пост, с удовольствием почитала. Мир определенно сходит с ума) И кто-то однозначно занимается копированием вместо создания чего-то нового. Это не радует..


    Marie
    StyleList By Me Blog
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    ReplyDelete
  9. Amazing, and I thought I was the only one who saw some uncanny similarities... what has happened to Dior?

    I'm slowly catching up with your fantastic posts... loving the DD quote!
    Have a lovely weekend and don't let the Dior thing get you worked up... I'd love to know what someone like Colin McDowell thought!
    x.o.x.o

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Actually, yes, it would be interesting to hear his thoughts, not only as a critic, but an authour who wrote a book about Galliano's life/designs. I wonder if his review is going to appear anywhere at all.

      xxx

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  10. I completely 100% agree with you...I miss the Galliano days at Dior, there was spunk and panache that came with his collections. I am so unimpressed with Dior the past few seasons, it all just feels very tired and cliche. Great photo copycat looks, I actually had no idea, things had gotten this far! *In Shock* :o

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  11. Personally, I will always adore Dior. I think that, as a fashion house, they know the types of aesthetics they want to send down the runway. Though many of them mirror past collections; they embody modifications {such as hem lengths} that make them more attuned to the current trends in fashion. My two cents. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Don't think changing hems (and pretty poorly I must admit) is enough to be a new creative at Dior... I agree it's their business and choice, but sadly, not a good one. x

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  12. Love Dior collections!!! :)
    xxx
    S

    http://s-fashion-avenue.blogspot.it

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  13. Little Rus, I really enjoyed the story of the vain Emperor :)))) Raf is not John, for me this is as clear as can be. From the first collection, I knew this is not going to work. I like some of these haute couture outfits, but I can't believe that pink dress, really? How could Raf design that dress for Dior? Have a lovely weekend!

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  14. I do see the similarities that you are referring to! Hopefully they can turn it around with the next line!

    xo, Yi-chia
    Always Maylee

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  15. It's a depressing thought but I'm afraid I must agree with you. I pretty much liked the first Simons' collection for Dior. There were some references to his previous works at Jil Sander. But in the end of the day each designers has his/her own theme to which they tend to come back.
    But the 2nd and 3rd collections were an absolutely disappointment. It seems like I keep on looking at the same gowns, suits, designs but in a different colour or with a different size of the floral pattern...sad, disappointing and yes, boring!

    Xx

    Alexandra

    www.fashion-bridge.blogspot.com

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  16. I can totally get your point. I was one who was so excited to see his work and, though I really think the collection (haute couture) is very stunning and wearable, left me little disappointed..I expected more since it was something just seen as you wrote. The only thing I really enjoyed is the make up look but lol now you showed that other photo and Im in trouble! great post and thought dear, thanks for sharing! Kisses and happy weekend! xo

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  17. I have to admit, Dior has never been my favourite fashion house. When I think couture I think Balenciaga. I loved the Dior by Galliano era though. As for Simons, he's simply lost. As you say, there are three collections already and he fails to impress. How come all those positive reviews? This is such a fake, fake world. It's times like these when I prefer blogging, at least here you can find an honest opinion more often. Have a wonderful weekend! xo

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  18. Now that you point these out, the similarities are incredibly obvious. Raf Simons does not seem up to the task at Dior or perhaps worse, he doesn't care. It's definitely a disappointment.

    Rowena @ rolala loves
    Enter my Shabby Apple Necklace Giveaway!

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  19. I love your fashion history post here and I must say I agree looks the same. He is talents lets not lie but I would like to see something different.

    xo,
    Cindi
    Breakfast at Cindi’s

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  20. Hmm, not very sure how to feel on this! I guess i need to sharpen my high fashion taste a little bit more, but to be honest, when I think high fashion these days, Dior definitely does not top the chart any more!
    Love
    Juneli from Fashionably Yours

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  21. I love your fashion history post and I agree the collections look the same but he is talented. Wish I could see something different and refreshing.

    xo,
    Cindi
    Breakfast at Cindi’s

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    Replies
    1. I have serious doubts about his talent as a fashion designer... He doesn't have the unique vision, the understanding and feel for fashion and fantasy. x

      Delete
  22. Да, к сожалению новая коллекция Dior многих разочаровала:-( Зато Ульяна Сергиенко как порадовала!

    Have a wonderful weekend!
    xxx

    Tatiana

    http://www.bonnie23blog.blogspot.com/


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    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Da, priyatno videt Ulyanu i ee ocharovatel'nie naryadi (hotya nekotorie nu ochen nampomnili mne Dolce&Gabbana)
      xxx

      Delete
  23. Yeah, I'm not lovin' it. And, yes, that lipstick is just silly.
    You are such a good writer!!

    XO, Gina
    http://classyeverafter.blogspot.com

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  24. Wow, those are indeed very similar mash ups to previous concoctions. So sad too. :-(
    -Jamie
    http://chatterblossom.blogspot.com/

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  25. Хм, забавно) Понятно, конечно, что все новое - хорошо забытое старое, но тут даже и забыть не успели))
    www.gvozdishe.com

    giveaway Msdressy – Win a $80 gift card

    ReplyDelete
  26. You're absolutely right I haven't been impressed either. Unfortunately it doesn't seem a good fit. One uninspiring season is forgivable but 3 is far too long and it's quite obvious that something is wrong. And the similarities to past Jil Sander collections are remarkable. I honestly miss the Galliano days.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Me too... And by now it's not even about Galliano (Ferre did a wonderful job at Dior, too, btw), but the times of fantasy and beauty and clothes that are unique and desirable. x

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  27. Your comparison is perplexing! Not very creative by Dior :(

    Thank you for showing this absolutely interesting comparison!

    xxx
    Rena

    http://dressedwithsoul.blogspot.de/

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You are welcome. Sad though, isn't it?

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  28. Replies
    1. Sorry but does't "avant garde" mean innovative and forward?

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  29. Amazing designs!

    http://fashionroll.com

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  30. Nice collection.

    xx Mounia
    www.nonchalantrebel.blogspot.com

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  31. you're not mad;)
    amazing yellow dresses by the way. they always will be fashionable;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't think you read the post, though.... It wasn't exactly about my mental health. ;)

      Delete
  32. I had to stop by again to read all the blogger reviews...If we all see the misstep in this, how come no one else does?

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  33. the yellow makes my eyes SO happy. I am so excited to follow you. i hope you follow back so we can stay in touch xoxo

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  34. Love the drama of these clothes!

    I hope you have a F-A-B weekend!

    xx
    Holly Foxen Wells
    GlamourMash

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sorry to hear you didn't have time to read the story. :(

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  35. Thanks for stopping by, I love the lips in the last photos!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The original or the copy version? ;)

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  36. hmmm...not even sure what to say, because I don't want to raze to the ground, still he have put some effort in it, how much or how creative it different story, yet I think I wouldn't mind to have any of these pieces in my wardrobe :)

    xoxo Ra

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    Replies
    1. Well, getting "inspired" by previous collections does require some serious effort, especially if one has no originality or talen of his own.

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  37. Replies
    1. You didn't really read the story, did you? ;)

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  38. dang girl, you did your research! this is a really impressive post.

    www.insparisian.com

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  39. Love all *:* thanks for sharing

    Love Storm

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  40. Natalia, you're the queen of designer fashion comparison! HAHAHA You KNOW your fashion history! Some don't, that's why it looks awesome to them. You've even told me before in some of my posts and I can respect that. The similarities are very obvious once you place the pictures side by side. You expect some things to come full circle in fashion (ex. colors, stripes, flowers etc). But when "new" collections start taking on the same cuts and designs. That's an entirely different story. Great post doll!
    http://www.averysweetblog.com/

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  41. Loved this post to bits! You did a great job on it! :)

    callmemaddie.blogspot.com

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  42. Да, по фотографиям видно, что вы абсолютно правы. Грустно, но такое случается иногда..

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  43. Leadership Dior must be really complicated and he failed, he has no inspiration and Dior needs something more.

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  44. That first dress is absolutely gorgeous!

    xx
    Kelly
    Sparkles and Shoes

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    Replies
    1. This is what Dior used to be, when Galliano was the creative designer. x

      Delete
  45. im sorry you feel uninspired! i see some similar ideas also

    -Nico

    www.satinandsalt.com

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    Replies
    1. I'd say depressed rather than uninspired - fake fashion can inspire my need to talking about it, since I find it incredibly sad, I am drawing the line with this post.

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  46. This photo at the top is beautiful.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, that's one of Galliano for Dior designs from the past. ;)

      Delete
  47. Wow, what a shame Natalia! I had no idea, but you're totally right - there are a crazy number of similarities... So frustrating, especially as Simons is getting so much praise. Mmm, maybe you should start up a petition for a new designer??!

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    Replies
    1. Oh, no... Not getting into fashion politics - it's Dior's business and choice. x

      Delete
  48. Natalia, I know how you feel about this maison and you have such an amazing knowledge of the Dior history. You made some very good points and the evidence lies in the pictures you included, but I have to say that I don't have very strong view on Simons. Actually, I read his profile on Vogue US (November or December) and I was really impressed by his background and attitude. Having said that, we have to wait and see what he could bring, what personal touch he can add to the house of Dior.

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  49. Love the sparkling lips

    1stepclosereveryday.blogspot.co.uk

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  50. I had written a pretty positive review about this collection on my blog and then Kim from averysweetblog told me to check out your review as it changed her opinion. I am glad I did because I never would have noticed the similarities. Good review!

    -Jacqueline

    www.jenesaisquoifashion.blogspot.com

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  51. I miss Galliano...not into what we've got goin on now w/ Simons.

    xoxo
    www.PardonMyFashion.com

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  52. At first I thought you were being too critical. Shouldn't that critique be addressed to almost everyone in the fashion business? But than, when you presented it through photos..well, it is clear that we are seeing too many repetitions from R.S

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  53. Totally with you on this...same old, same old. And perhaps it is a 'New Era for Dior'...afterall, the looks were from Jil Sander!

    I'm still in shock at Simons' comments from a few months ago, stating that Galliano's work was now irrelevant. Hmmmm...not in my book.

    Devon
    www.InformedStyle.com

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  54. I haven't ever really been a fan of Dior. I would look at their ads and find them boring and not very relatable to an average woman's needs and style. And thanks to your blog I'm able to realize how a lot of their collections have lost originality and creativity.
    Lovely post. Congrats on Links a la Mode.

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  55. I totally agree with you. I wrote about Dior vs. Chanel in one of my posts, didn't really spot the copying so much at Dior as I was shocked by Karl's lack of taste. what's happening with these so called genius designers? have all gone mad?

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