NYFW Fall 2013: long-lasting impressions

15/02/2013

oscar de la renta show invitation
It feels like it’s only been a day or two since we saw the very first Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection, but the New York part of the global fashion extravaganza is over. While the fashion pack is moving their forces to London, I am sitting at my desk, all wrapped-up and cosy, cup of tea at arm’s reach, thinking of my favourites.

As always I was very grateful to the designers who live streamed their shows for everyone to watch. It puzzles me why there are still some who choose not to. Seeing the clothes move and absorbing the atmosphere of the show, even through the screen, can be good for both the inspiration and understanding of the collection as well as sales boost. The clothes that live are everything. The fashion “nature mortes” that become available minutes after the shows don’t always have the same effect.

What will I remember about New York fashion week the most?

Details-wise, the masculine coats, the structural dresses, the short full skirts, the injection of blue, plenty of leather and fur, the long gloves and the knee-high boots.

And then there were the collections…

Needless to say, the one I was looking forward to the most was the Oscar de la Renta show. Thankfully they streamed, so my only task was staying up past midnight in order to witness the moment in fashion history.

Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2012-2013
Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2012-2013
Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2012-2013
Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2012-2013
Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2012-2013
Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2012-2013
Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2012-2013
Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2012-2013
As soon as the first look came out it was obvious that Galliano certainly was in the building – those gathered jackets cinched at the waist with a leather belt were very him, sort of René Gruau’s inspired Couture Spring 2011 mixed with 2010 and John Galliano ready-to-wear Fall 2011, the shapes and colours of the “bubble” dresses reminded me of two of the Dior’s couture collections circa 2008, leather and capes – Dior Fall 2011 and the the lace gown looked very similar to the one Galliano designed for Dior Couture Fall 2005. Half way through the show the make-up and hair became very familiar, too.
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2005,
John Galliano Spring/Summer 2011
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011
In fact, minus the locks at the back, those heavily painted eyes, bow lips and wavy hair were very much like the look from the John Galliano Spring 2011 ready-to-wear show.

But there were also clothes that were definitely Oscar. Those were beautiful, but felt mature and very grown-up. Perhaps, not for the young and free who would be grapping the capes, timeless tuxedo-like jackets and leather that were also a part of the collection – a slightly confusing mix, at the end, but nevertheless, it’s better to be confused by beauty than the lack of it.

The point this collection showed is that Galliano and de la Renta definitely share the same aesthetics and despite age difference belong to the old school kind of designers who understand fashion deeply and have an ability to put this kind of understanding into the clothes.

At the end of the show John didn’t come out. I am sure many would want him to, but alas, it didn’t happen. Still, it was a relief to know that Galliano was there, he was given an opportunity to create again and at least a bunch of people from the industry were there to support him… I was happy for him. I was happy that he found the strength to get out there, no matter how many spiteful comments and remarks have been published all over the web. I was happy to know that this man, the unique talent, is here, alive, working… no matter what. I admit, I was scared that we might lose him, just as we did McQueen. Now I am relieved and looking forward to the future seasons… 

There was another Brit that made me happy last week. Victoria Beckham created yet another simple but very elegant and perfectly executed collection where every item was a visual treat. If only I could afford her designs, I’d live in them.

Victoria Beckham Fall/Winter 2013
Victoria Beckham Fall/Winter 2013
Victoria Beckham Fall/Winter 2013
The other fashion delights I will remember (and wish I could have) included…



… J. Mendel floating gown – this picture doesn’t do any justice to it.

J Mendel Fall/Winter 2013
… Theykens’ Theory modern classics with a flirty twist and a touch of comfort proving that slouchy can be so very sensual.

Theyskens' Theory Fall/Winter 2013
Theyskens' Theory Fall/Winter 2013
Theyskens' Theory Fall/Winter 2013
Photo source: Oscar de la Renta show invite, Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter 2013, Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2005, John Galliano Spring/Summer 2011, Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011, Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2009, Victoria Beckham Fall/Winter 2013, J Mendel Fall/Winter 2013, Theyskens' Theory Fall/Winter 2013 via stylebistro.com & style.com

33 comments:

  1. I love to see a little black dress with a twist and those first two Oscar de la Renta ones are lovely. Victoria Beckham's collection is wonderful in so many ways - mainly the simplicity and the gorgeous fabrics. I had read that she was doing knitwear - can't wait to see more. Great post.
    http://missbbobochic.blogspot.co.uk/

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  2. Marvellous array of designs...loved them. I hope you have a great weekend too xx

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  3. О, какой интересный пост! Буду долго разглядывать в деталях! Произведения Гальяно мне очень симпатичны!

    xxx
    Таня

    http://www.bonnie23blog.blogspot.com/


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  4. As everytime when it is over, I miss it since is one of my fav! Was nice to read your thoughts, I enjoy those collections you share, also I pernally adored Ralph Lauren and Jason Wu! Kisses dear!! xo

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  5. What a wonderful post,Natalia!

    I´am totally agree with you about a clear appearance of hand of Galliano in the new collection of Oscar de la Renta.

    And HOW fantastic do you said about another one:

    ''Theory modern classics with a flirty twist and a touch of comfort proving how slouchy can be so very sensual...''

    Thank you so much for share it here,

    Sending my warm hugs,
    ***Violetta***

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  6. What a great post with your personal views! You're a true fashionista! Thanks so much for sharing! xo Caroline

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  7. Oh,I´am sorry....almost forgotten to say how absolutely stunning is this fashion illustration above!!!
    Admire the wonderful talented hand wich made them:-)))*

    ***Violetta***

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  8. so many things to love about the oscar de la renta show! and i think we may even see some of these dresses on the oscars red carpet!

    www.insparisian.com

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  9. wow, thanks for the extensive roundup!!

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  10. Some of the clothes I like and others do not :)

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  11. Nice to see your NYFW favorites. It's always great to read different opinions on a fashion week

    Xx

    Alexandra

    www.fashion-bridge.blogspot.com

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  12. I missed NYFW because of my busy schedule, so thanks for the great round up! :D

    -sillylilacs

    P.S. Thank you for visiting my blog! It allowed me to find yours to follow :D

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  13. I didn't follow any of the collections, so I appreciate this. I'm so happy for Galliano. I applaud Oscar for stepping up and collaborating with him. It's long overdo. Victoria Beckham always gets it right. Very simplistic! I love her designs. Excellent post!
    http://www.averysweetblog.com/

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  14. Everything is soo feminine this season!


    XX,
    Miranda

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  15. Hello dear,
    Would you like to follow each others blogs with blogger, facebook and bloglovin?
    Have a nice day!
    gV

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  16. Brilliant post! So well researched and I can see the great effort you put into picking out the best outfits off the runway. Loved the gowns at de la Renta, J Mendel was amazing too.

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  17. Good post! Beautiful dresses!

    want to follow each other?

    Best wishes,

    vgolove1.blogspot.ru

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  18. amazing post!

    wanna follow each other?
    http://thedaydreamings.blogspot.de/

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  19. I am with you! I love VB's style - if I could only afford her designer pieces...

    Annette
    Lady of Style

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  20. Dear Natalia, I was looking forward to this post...the Oscar de la Renta show was special for so many reasons and the clothes (which are the most important part of a fashion runaway) were simply beautiful. The look in the fourth picture, the elegant hats and that skirt in the third photo of the third set of images are my favourite highlights. As for Victoria Beckham, as I wrote in a comment on Ada's blog, I'm really surpised by the beauty and wearability of her creations. I know it doesn't sound nice, but I always have strong prejudice when I see celebrity and fashion line in the same sentence. Well, in this case I'm certainly wrong! Have a nice Sunday! Caterina

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    1. Dear Caterina, I totally understand your scepticism about celebrities turned designers. I was also a little apprehensive about Victoria at first thinking it will be yet another bored footballers wife pretending to be a great designer because she exhausted all the other ways to spend cash... But she clearly showed that she's got great taste and eye for detail not only when it comes to her own appearance, but also her designs. So a couple of collections were enough to win me over. :) I blogged about her in the past and I have a feeling this isn't the last post either. :)
      x

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  21. wonderful, really!
    xoxo
    parisian-fairytale.blogspot.fr

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  22. Hi dear
    NIce selection, love the cape and the long red dress
    xoxo

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  23. The Oscar de le Renta collection is fabulous - loving the belted jackets and coloured gloves, and those pixie hats are so cute too! Glad you've been enjoying the shows!!

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  24. Yes, the make-up and the coats were so Galliano, it was so obvious! I share the same feeling, Little Rus, it is so great that he is coming back and we have not lost him! Such a great moment for the fashion world and Oscar de la Renta is really a great person, not only an amazing designer! Kisses

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  25. Hi, Natalia. I just browsed your post last week and now I can comment. Yes, I think the biggest news this season is the comeback of Galliano. In an industry that's so quick to cut throat, a gesture like Oscar de la Renta's gives me hope. It is truly wonderful to know that John Galliano is creating again. I thought about mentioning them in my post, but I didn't in the end. Maybe this subject is worth a post of its own, I don't know. As for Ralph Lauren, it's one of those collections I need to review a few times until I form an impression about it. I loved the details and accessories, that's for sure, and I most probably will write about it next season.
    That J. Mendel dress is gorgeous! Caramel paired with black, it's such a great choice of colours. And it follows the line of the body so beautifully.

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