Paris collections & industry news

08/10/2013

Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Slightly overdue, this post is still going to happen. I simply could not skip the entire Paris fashion week just because I chose to be off the face of the universe for a few days.

Of course, I followed the shows and news (the Alaia exhibit at the Galliera Museum, premier of Mademoiselle C, Marc Jacobs’ departure from Louis Vuitton). Of course, I fell in love. And, of course, I faced a few disappointments, though predictable, but nevertheless hurtful (mainly to the eye rather than the well-bubble-wrapped mind, though – I was emotionally prepared as you can tell).

Everything that made it to todays post was about love, beauty, memories and dreams as well as a vigorous quality control for I truly believe that any form of fashion magic requires a perfect cut and fabrics otherwise all the eye is going to see is the garment, not a woman who is wearing it.

Chloe was by far my absolute favourite. After the show ended, I found myself dreaming of it, craving of it, waking up and going to bed thinking of it… It was all about the white dress, plisse fabric and the lightness and airiness of it all. Quietly gorgeous and incredibly liberating it brought back memories of a suit made of a similar textured fabric – as simple and basic as that wide-pant-long-sleeve-top set was, it made me feel beautiful… happy… summery… As soon as the dress appeared on the runway, those emotions returned as an endorphin rush.

The now-known-as-dream-dress was followed by a bouncy pearl blue oversized sweater worn over a pair of bow-tied shorts covered in tiny pink gold specks and, as the grand finale that completely seduced my weakened fashion-obsessed brain, a belted pleated olive and khaki dress. So ethereal, the collection was brought back to reality by the sensually smooth minimalistic bracelets and an array of bags that, despite their visual pliability, definitely had a masculine touch to them. The earthy tones were as calm as a sleepy olive garden and the blues were as striking as the sky and the sea. As far as the summer style goes, one cannot wish for more (may be the only wish I’d have is to wake up with legs like Bette’s)…

Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Chloe Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche was good, too. Not all of it, mind you, but there was enough to adore and desire. I didn’t think much of some jackets, but I loved the mellow part made of pleated cocoon dresses (the shape was originally called "a sack", but I prefer the poetic form to the original), bouncy skirts, ingeniously pleated trousers and classic coats.

Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014
At Nina Ricci Peter Copping mixed the Yin and Yang creating a collection that embodied the brand's romance, but also included pieces with a modern, clean and sharp feel to them. The love thing happened again for I do have a soft spot for Peter Copping/Nina Ricci deliciousness.

Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014
So here are my top three collections that will be remembered as the beautiful part of Paris fashion week.

And then there were "the other shows" and events... The angry teens at Rick Owens and topless protestors at Nina Ricci, and the looks that killed, almost literally.

The cacophony of colours, sounds and claustrophobic space at Dior made me,  once again, realise how confused Simons was about the brand. I admired the workmanship that went into each garment, but the overall collection felt harsh, dull and far, far, far from elegant. I am not sure what kind of woman Simons pictures as a Dior client, but, in my humble opinion, a woman of class would never want to go out in a dress covered in slogans, a skirt with a hole or, even worse, a fanciful concoction resembling a pair of shape wear knickers worn over pleated shorts. 

As if realising that the initial collection wasn't up to the level required by Dior, Simons then sent out a completely new set of looks that resembled his previous designs. 

The show that was confusing and painful to watch soon followed by the Ungaro one - a public spectacle where the brand has been slowly murdered by a string of so-so designers who, as it feels, don’t really care. What I don’t understand is why the owners can’t approach Galliano and ask him to revive the house? You’d have to be blind not to see a similarity in aesthetics of Ungaro and Galliano designs. Both were sensual, feminine, somewhat mysterious and teasing. They even favoured the same models! Oh, Galliano with his incredible talent could turn it into something so fabulous and legendary. Instead we got to see what we were presented. A murder on a catwalk floor.

Paris certainly delivered a lot to think about and made the provocative world of fashion feel exciting yet again. For all kinds of reasons, but that's a different story... 

Photo source: Chloe Spring/Summer 2014, Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2014 and Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014 via stylebistro.com & style.com

23 comments:

  1. I don't know why I lost interest in the fashion weeks this season. I don't think there was even one collection I loved from beginning to end. Of the Paris collections I liked Chloe most of all though and the more times I view it the more I like it. This usually happens and I will probably grow to like some other lines when spring approaches. There were some beautiful designs at Guy Laroche too.

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  2. Amazing all these fab collections - and I had no idea of the topless protesters either - good I can come here and get the latest fashion news - isn't blogging the best ;-) Have a great day Natalia xxxx

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  3. Amazing collection, The first dress is so cool!
    Alessia
    THECHILICOOL
    FACEBOOK
    Video outfit YOUTUBE
    Kiss

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  4. Nice post and beautiful Photos!
    Ciao

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  5. wow, amazing pictures;) I would like to be on Fashion week someday... ;)

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  6. REALLY GREAT POST ,NICE BLOG BTW !
    MAYBE WE FOLLOW EACH OTHER ON GFC , BLOGLOVIN AND FACEBOOK .. LET ME KNOW !

    Come and see my new post on :
    www.hypnocake.blogspot.com

    = BADER LAMONT FROM CASABLANCA =

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  7. I agree with you, either for the likes and the dislikes. Chloe is a dream, the look Bette Franke is wearing is so stunning and she is utterly perfect for it. Love also Nina Ricci and Guy Laroche. So so disappointed by Raf Simons..I also have the same thought about Chanel and YSL, for this last one is fine it was the final show of Marc Jacobs but too much "dramatic" and the single piece pretty bold. Have a nice day dear, kisses! xo

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  8. I love Chloé so much it hurts (in my wallet)! xo Caroline

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  9. wow--great roundup! i really liked the structured pieces there in the middle

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  10. Great recap!
    Love the pics you selected, so refined and chic!
    xxx
    s

    http://s-fashion-avenue.blogspot.it/

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  11. Excellent post Natalia. I loved Chloe and Nina Ricci. The embellishments for the Ricci collection were absolutely gorgeous. Paris Fashion Week was definitely a thrill ride. I didn't know what to expect day by day. HaHa I'm glad you did this post. I was interested in hearing your thoughts on things. Welcome back doll! You were missed :D
    http://www.averysweetblog.com/

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  12. This is one of the best recaps I've seen on a blog!!
    Thank you for sharing those collections and I can see why you were dreaming of Chloe...those fabrics are dreamy!!
    The movement is so light and beautiful.
    XOXO

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  13. Hi Natalia, I loved reading your review, Chloe was a clear favorite of mine too, so beautifully feminine in a modern way. I really don't get the Dior collections anymore, its so far off from what it used to be, like an entirely new different brand all together. I am off to see the Ungaro collection after you mentioned it Many Thanks from Ray & I for your kind comments on my last post.

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  14. Oh my, so many good things here. As i am a bag person, i totally fell in love with the first three. I want them all :-)

    Red xx

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  15. These neutral pieces have me swooning.

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  16. Paris Fashion Week never disappoints - not for me, anyway. In my fashion dreams, I am wearing Vionnet; obviously my life is in these dreams is quite a bit different than my real one as I can't imagine wearing a gown to sit at my desk writing but, well, that's what makes it a dream, I suppose :)
    xox,
    Cee

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  17. amazing inspiration. Love fashion week<3
    follow? www.sandicious.blogspot.com

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  18. Natalia,
    Oh,how much I've enjoy your post again!
    Your story about Paris fashion week SS 2014 make my day,that's true....
    You are very lucky girl: you've chance to see all these beautiful creations on the catwalk!
    And then.... You describe it so impressive,I've feeling: I am there too in my dream:)
    Chloe collection breathless nice with all these stunning little "touches of Art"...
    Thank you so much for share it,dear friend!
    Wishing you beautiful week ahead,

    Hugs,
    ***Violetta***

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  19. I like the looks from Guy Laroche and in general I´m curious if we will see the new shapes on the streets ... Thanks for this informative post, dear Natalia!

    xx from Bavaria/Germany, Rena

    www.dressedwithsoul.blogspot.de

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  20. Great images !
    I still have to look at the Paris collections too, its a MUST !

    xo,
    Cindi
    Breakfast at Cindi’s

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  21. You have such beautiful writing, I feel like I was at Paris Fashion Week. Love the pictures. They are so gorgeous. I love all the white on white looks and the last dress is so pretty!!!

    xox,
    anna-lamode.blogspot.com

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  22. Gorgeous post Natalia, such a fabulous round up. I'm loving all of the looks you've showcased but the Guy Laroche ones are my faves for sure, just divine.

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