MFW: what a feeling!

24/09/2014

It was a very strange feeling... I cannot really describe it apart from saying that Milan fashion week left me with an odd sensation. As if I expected more - and never quite got there. Just like eating a low fat ice-cream - the pretty tempting shell without flavour and strange after taste...

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2015
There were a lot of florals, leather, brogues and fabulous high heels...

The 1970s reigned supreme...

Giamba Spring/Summer 2015
There were new, but familiar faces. Giambattista Valli returned to his home land with Giamba (a sister line named after Valli's nickname), an overload of flower-covered prettiness in mini(ature) lengths and shapes.

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2015
At Jil Sander, Rodolfo Paglialunga who brought Vionnet back to the fashionable scene in 2010 (and also worked at Prada before that), showed his first collection for the brand.

Rodolfo Paglialunga
I missed Ferre very much.

I thought of retirement for the others - after all, one can be an extraordinary driver, but once you lose the sense of reality or the vision (both physically and metaphorically) or simply want to leave whilst everyone remembers you as an emperor, you've got to find a successor to drive this car of yours around. Before it gets uncomfortable for everyone... for it's not the easiest thing to be brutally honest with the ones you truly love.

I had a moment of deja vu, yet again.

I was happy at times, the smiling-happy, the dreaming-happy sort of thing. And sometimes I felt bored, which is a worrying emotion when it comes to fashion.

Never the less, I chose my favourites. These clothes spoke to me one way or another... Luckily for those who prefer shorter blog posts, the main conversations will be limited down to three.

Shall we start with Prada?

Prada Spring/Summer 2015
The purple sand and dark room made me think cosmic. I thought Miuccia was going to take everyone to the future, but instead, unpredictable as Prada is, the designer turned the clock back into the past, all the way down to the 19th century where she looked for some of the brocades used in the Spring/Summer collection. The rest of the fabrics dated anything from the early 1900's though the 1960s. Once lost, they were found and reproduced by Prada to live their new lives in clothes. Not only that, the whole point of this exercise was to bring everyone's attention to the craftsmanship, the quality of the artisans, and preserve the centuries-worth of traditions and craft before it's wiped away by time and fast fashion, turned into the sand... Even if she did nothing else, but just this one thing, I would love and respect Prada endlessly.

Prada Spring/Summer 2015
But she did a lot more than that. She played and dreamed and paired the impossible components, the loves and hates, the surprises and shocks, to provoke, to make us fall in love and imagine something we haven't ever thought of before...

Prada Spring/Summer 2015
The beautiful dresses with imperfect fringed unfinished hems brushing against the skin. The strands of fabric tangling among the jewels. The seams that added a new dimension to the lady-like coats and then became bold and almost rude when disturbing the precious brocades of the figure-hugging sheaths.

Prada Spring/Summer 2015
At the end Miuccia gave us a lot to talk about, a lot to wear and play with, something for now, something to collect. What it was like for her, I wonder? Probably just another day in Prada Universe that never stops spinning.

Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Prada Spring/Summer 2015
Alright, I confess, the very first look from the Missoni Spring/Summer collection didn't quite do it for me, didn't grab my heart securely enough. It all began with the second outfit...

Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
The lightness and the light, the movement and the flow, the colours and the sparkles. The trenches that would make the most perfect summer cover-up and the simple maxi dresses that moved like a dream. A feeling of pure bliss embedded in dresses, the ease, the joy and an absolute sense of freedom. Loved it. The soundtrack, "Nothing compares 2 U" in Chinese, was rather special, too.

Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Missoni Spring/Summer 2015
Of course, I couldn't miss Marni.  Despite the fact that the brand was turning 20, Consuelo Castiglioni created such a fantastic collection mixing Zen and modern that twenty felt youthful and fearless rather than, well, old.

Marni Spring/Summer 2015
It was so true to Marni spirit, full of deconstructed graphic shapes and floral prints possibly inspired by South Asia (think Zen and Bhutan, the only country that measured it's success by the so very holistic value of the gross national happiness - maybe this is another reason why Marni resonates with me so much).

Marni Spring/Summer 2015
A lot of thought went into the details: the choice of fabrics and the finished (and often unfinished) hems, the draping, prints, embroidery and appliqués, and, of course, the accessories. It was beautiful and very clever, witty and joyous. Wonderful for the soul and the body it lives in.

Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Marni Spring/Summer 2015
Photo source: Prada Missoni Spring/Summer 2015 backstage, Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2015 backstage, Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2015 backstage, Prada Spring/Summer 2015, Missoni Spring/Summer 2015, Marni Spring/Summer 2015 via style.com, stylebistro.com, backstage photos via vogue.com

13 comments:

  1. I know what you mean as I felt the same! Even though MFW is my fav at the mo than NYFW and LFW. I like your picks, Missoni in particular is dreamy! Kisses Natalia xo

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  2. Love Prada's brocades! It's one of my favorite collections from them in the last few seasons.

    Bella Pummarola

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  3. ha ha, I love your comparison to low fat ice cream and I agree with you.

    XO, Gina
    http://classyeverafter.blogspot.com

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  4. OOOh I love all pieces ^^

    Kisses
    http://www.mademoisellemode.com/

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  5. That's so interesting, Milan left me with a very familiar feeling, actually. It was just what I expected :)

    Edita
    www.pret-a-reporter.co.uk

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  6. I have to say that beside prada, alberta ferretti and Gucci I was not that happy with MFW collections, nothing new so far....
    Don't Call Me Fashion Blogger
    Facebook
    Bloglovin'

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  7. Nice pieces ^^

    Kisses
    http://www.mademoisellemode.com/

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  8. Great collection ;)

    http://retromaggie.blogspot.pt/

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  9. I am a huge fan of Marni after seeing this collection!

    xo,
    miranda

    thechicstreet.com

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  10. Out of the three, Marni would be my favourite. I certainly won't buy Prada shoes in the near future... :)

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  11. Очень мне нравится читать Ваши посты,Наташенька!
    Особенно потому что Вы умеете найти самое точное описание деталей и даже ощущений от каждой коллекции.....
    Marni i Misoni- мои фавориты здесь!:)*

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  12. Usually MFW is better. I was shocked myself.
    http://www.averysweetblog.com/

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  13. Reading this post after the Christophe Lemaire quote really made me think - I can't help but wonder if we continually feel disappointed by Fashion Week because designers are killing themselves with resort collections and chasing profit, at the behest of parent companies, rather than taking the time to devote to their craft that the craft truly requites.
    xox,
    Cee

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