PFW Spring/Summer 2015 favourites

03/10/2014

Nina Ricci Spring 2015
"France has little, alas to export, but she has her appreciation of beautiful things and the skill of her couture houses."
From a letter written by a French government officer to the Ambassador of France in Britain, 1945

Serenity, calm and a feeling of nostalgia... I craved them after a four week marathon known as fashion week. Granted, I didn't have to travel from one continent to another, spend countless hours waiting at the airport, train stations, traffic jams, backstage, front (and not so front) row - this kind of life is a privilege I haven't been granted. Still, being true to myself I watched as many shows and interviews as I could, looked through every single collection on numerous occasions, admired the detailed shots of the garments and abused my poor Mac typing and publishing everything I wanted to share...

By the time Paris fashion week arrived I decided to slow down to an article a day, add an extra hour of sleep to somehow reduce the dark circles under my eyes (those bags, unfortunately, aren't Chanel) and generally try and restore the inner tranquility and peace...

Dries van Noten was a blessing. Dreamy, beautiful, luminous, it was a story inspired by Millais' "Ophelia", the nature, "the moon and the sun", the sensation of ease and freedom, "the arts and crafts", and the intricate fabrics created for the collection.

Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
There was so much to absorb... You could start with the clothes, the bohemian-influenced coats, tunics, flowing maxi dresses, pandeu tops, tapered harem trousers, shorts and layered light-as-air skirts, feast your eye on the most creative mix of brocades, damasks, woven denims, embroideries and printed silks in so many options that one would "never dare to count" them,  focus on the small details - an intricate necklace that looked like a twig decorated with a trinket picked up somewhere during travels, a bracelet duo, a make-up free glowing skin, a golden stroke on the bottom lip....

Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
And listen to the music... melting into the darkness, crushing into tiny crystals and the sound of heart beat, a blend of dissonance and harmony...

Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Even the catwalk was rather special... Covered in several rugs to resemble moss, each piece hand made by Alexandra Kehayoglou in Buenos Aires and flown to Paris days before the show...

Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Nobody does it quite like Dries van Noten...

Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015


The calmness, but of a different, noble, kind continued at Hermes where Christophe Lemaire showed his last collection for the house. He was inspired by childhood memories, Africa, the dry heat and desert, the gleaming sun and the velvet golden sand.

The clothes made from natural fabrics, labs leather and lizard skins, the natural colours, the vibrant prints almost as if borrowed from the scarves, and clean, but sensual pleats and draping felt effortless, but incredibly thought through.

Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Everything was design to give the Hermes woman a sensation of unrestricted luxury, timelessness, sophistication and ultimate comfort. Purity doesn't get better than this.

Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015


The ultimate Nina Ricci... It felt as if Peter Copping knew about his departure days months ago, so he created a collection to be remembered. It was inspired by the post-war Paris and the "Theatre de la Mode", the touring exhibit featuring 200 miniature mannequins wearing couture clothes created by Nina Ricci and about sixty other Parisian couturiers (as well as jewellers and seamstresses) to preserve the art of craft, converse precious textiles and introduce new styles.

Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Perhaps it was not simply my love for Nina Ricci and Copping designs, but also the story and 1940s silhouettes that made me choose this collection among the rest. I loved loved loved the fitted suits and curve-caressing jumpers and skirts, the double-faced fluid crepe fabrics with a surprising element of colour injections, the crinkled satins, the scrumptious oversized waffle sweater almost as if it was borrowed from the boys and then prettified with a bow, the layers of interwoven lace and the laser cut flowers encrusted with jet beading... And the final touches - the mismatched vintage jewellery and the music like a sprinkle of a magic fairy dust with a French accent...

Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
It was such a celebration of beauty and dreams! Boy, oh, boy, I am going to miss Peter Copping so much, no amount of Oscar de la Renta isn't going to fix it...

Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015


"It's a release of joy; fragments of memory" said Pierpaolo Piccioli about Valentino Spring/Summer 2015 collection... And I couldn't have agreed more... I watched it as if dreaming, almost as if I was hypnotised by beauty and my own past...

Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
It wasn't just about the clothes, the embroideries, beading, layers of organza, denim that was turned into a work of art, leather that resembled the most delicate lace or the feathers turned into flowers. That last dress, the white silk gown covered in sea stars was like a vision...

Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Me, aged 3, wearing my very first costume for a New Years kindergarden "party"... I was a Snow flake and my parents had to invent something overnight from whatever they could find. They worked for hours and when I woke up, presented me with a little dress: the white tank top with a DIY's tulle tutu skirt covered in silver snowflakes made from foil... I looked at the Valentino's last exist and felt my eyes filling up with tears.. Isn't it just wonderful how fashion can stir something in us that we would have never thought of otherwise? A fragment of memory...

Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
This is what Paris fashion week is also going to become... 

Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015


Photo source: Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015, Hermes Spring/Summer 2015, Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2015, Valentino Spring/Summer 2015 via style.com & stylebistro.com, backstage photos via vogue.com

5 comments:

  1. You picked my favs as well, Nina Ricci and Valentino in particular. Ive also loved Valentin Yudashkin, dreamy!:) PFW has been my fav among all, at last I enjoyed many collections. Kisses Natalia, have a lovely weekend! xo

    ReplyDelete
  2. i am in love with the hermes and valentino collections. definitely an eye feast. so spectacular in a simple way.
    http://www.averysweetblog.com/

    ReplyDelete
  3. I love the colors and collections! Can't wait for next summer!

    ♘ www.sugarpopfashion.com ♘

    ReplyDelete
  4. Настоящая магия неделя Высокой моды в Париже!:)*
    С таким жаром и страстью в душе Вы пишите о каждой детали о захватившими Ваше сердце талантливых коллекций....
    Валентино был и остаётся моим кумиром в невороятно романтично- классическом и восхитительно элегантном стиле!
    Гермес ошеломил меня совершенно,теперь сихху вот уже в сотый раз пересматриваю всё в малейших подробностях....
    Нина Ричи-перфекционизм высшей степени и какая безумная элегантность!
    Дрис ван Нотен-да,это настоящая магия,созданная таким талантливым худжником!!!

    Спасибо Вам,Наташенька за все Ваши прекрасные,очень инфромативные,просто фантастически великолепные посты!
    Отдыхайте теперь!:))))*

    ReplyDelete
  5. I have to say, Christophe Lemaire for Hermes has really grown on me over the years, and this was by far my favourite collection he has done for the house. The perfect simplicity of colour combined with attention to detail is exactly what I love. And Valentino - while completely different than what I just described - was, as always a dream. Unlike Hermes, I can't picture myself wearing it, but I can dream of it.
    xox,
    Cee

    ReplyDelete