Can you un-see things? I wish there was a trick for that. Unfortunately Gucci left such a long-lasting impression that nothing will ever erase it from my memory. Nothing. I was looking forward to this collection and, in return, got a handful of dusty clothes from a charity shop and a few pairs of Rochas-inspired hobbit shoes. It frightened me.
Next was Bottega Veneta - the collection that wasn't nearly as depressing as Gucci, but not the Bottega Veneta I've been in love with either. It was wrinkled, overspotty and frumpy. The only pieces I liked (at a push) were the ones resembling designs from the past collections. The shoes and hosiery were a tragedy.
Apart from the dusty feel and sadness, both offerings were heavily over done and over styled - at least, for me. And I think this is what made them look out of place. Because at the end, Italian fashion is like Italian cuisine - it's about a wonderful excess without the obvious extravagance, the quality over quantity, the fabrics that make you feel a little bit orgasmic and the lines that make memories.
In other words - the best ingredients that give you a sense (and sensation) of taste. You want pizza - you get a thin dough with some incredible tomato sauce, a bit of basil and mozzarella, not a pineapple/sausage/prawn/etc stuffed extravaganza. You want coffee - you make a freshly made espresso, not choca-moca-double-foam-no-sugar-extra-soy-hazelnut-flavoured cocktail.
Simple. Timeless. Always good for you, internally and externally.
Now, the grumpy part of over, lets talk about the clothes...
Fendi looks have not always translated well into the still images, but the collection inspired by the Palazzo della Civilta Italiana, was wonderful. I loved the movement of the clothes, the oversized puffed up pieces and the leather panels resembling protective armour for the fragile fabrics they covered. But above all, I adored the coats - I could live without everything else Lagerfeld gave us, but never - this gorgeousness.
And I loved Trussardi very much, too. The colour scheme of dark chocolate, greys and greens was beautiful, the leather - scrumptiously, dreamy, incredibly, unbelievably soft and the clothes - perfection of Italian chic and Trussardi craftsmanship.
Massimiliano Giornetti, the Salvatore Ferragamo creative director, was one of those collection that will be stuck in my mind forever. And the buttons made me smile - it was a wonderful, very minimalistic, but striking and playful finishing touch. Definitely pushed the right buttons in me.
Ermanno Scervino was, well, Ermanno Scervino. The sensual, sexy, seductive and beautiful. The three particular looks were my absolute favourites - the right shade of red, the houndstooth prints, the clever and creative pleating (it really intrigued me!) and a beautiful cocktail dress that really needed a close-up to be truly appreciated.
Photo source: Max Mara Fall/Winter 2015 via T magazine, Fendi Fall/Winter 2015, Trussardi Fall/Winter 2015, Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2015, Ermanno Scervino Fall/Winter 2015