was the best representation of this PR-powered, fame-crazy, mind-blowing and substance-poor times we live in.
The lack of quality and talent were heavily compensated by the media frenzy outbursts, Rihanna becoming the face (boobs and bottom) of Dior and the Kardashian appearances.
The never-ending game of musical chairs turned into an absolute joke. At Balenciaga Wang was killing it, yet again. At Nina Ricci the aesthetics of "refined, romantic and always feminine" that formed the core of the brand and were perfected by Copping were replaced with odd fringes, see-through everything, boxy coats and dresses sprouting fibres here and there - lets hope next season will be better. And at John Galliano it became even more clear that being a good pattern cutter, as Gaytten is, does't exactly give you the vision of Galliano, especially when the designer himself is channeling it fully at Maison Margiela to prove my point.
And when I thought the worst was over, I was even more confused by the two clowns walking the walk at the end of the Valentino show. They had standing ovation! Not the designers. Not the clothes. But the fictional characters from Zoolander. Was the farce really necessary? And if it was, then why choose Zoolander as the best fashion movie? Why not use Pret-a-Porter? That famous finale would definitely break the internet hungry for those interested in taking the clothes off rather than being able to understand and wear them.
On a positive note, there were collections that were beautiful to the core and true to the traditions of the houses they came from.
And since the only one I've covered so far was the Dries van Noten presentation, here are the other favourites I wanted to share and, who knows where the luck finds me, wear some day.
Fall 2015 was the first Hermes affair for Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski who became the brand's creative director in July 2014 following the departure of Lemaire. And if there was a collection that could be used as a perfect example of respect for the house tradition transformed to suit the modern times, Hermes Fall 2015 would fit the description to a T.
It was such a labour of love! The clothes inspired by Hermes equestrian heritage and iconic scarves were luxurious, serene, chic and impeccable. It was truly Hermes, but also very Nadege. Each look was "signed off" with an "H" - like a secret mark, a stroke - light, modern, used as a button, necklace or a pin made of silver and precious marble sphere.
Christophe Lemaire also didn't disappoint. In fact, I don't believe it would be fair to use the term "disappointment" as a part of a sentence when talking about Lemaire's designs. Their (Lemaire is a creative tandem of Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran) vision of femininity emphasised by the masculine fabrics sheltering the bare skin was absolutely beautiful.
Admittedly, the hippy-go-folksy looks at Chloe didn't speak to me, but the rest of the collection left me wanting everything - the dresses, the ankle boots, the bags, the coats - those strong, sleek silhouettes were absolutely irresistible!