PFW collections & after thoughts

19/03/2015

If fashion had everything to do with the present and the streets, Paris fashion week was the best representation of this PR-powered, fame-crazy, mind-blowing and substance-poor times we live in. 

The lack of quality and talent were heavily compensated by the media frenzy outbursts, Rihanna becoming the face (boobs and bottom) of Dior and the Kardashian appearances. 

The never-ending game of musical chairs turned into an absolute joke. At Balenciaga Wang was killing it, yet again. At Nina Ricci the aesthetics of "refined, romantic and always feminine" that formed the core of the brand and were perfected by Copping were replaced with odd fringes, see-through everything, boxy coats and dresses sprouting fibres here and there - lets hope next season will be better. And at John Galliano it became even more clear that being a good pattern cutter, as Gaytten is, does't exactly give you the vision of Galliano, especially when the designer himself is channeling it fully at Maison Margiela to prove my point.

And when I thought the worst was over, I was even more confused by the two clowns walking the walk at the end of the Valentino show. They had standing ovation! Not the designers. Not the clothes. But the fictional characters from Zoolander. Was the farce really necessary? And if it was, then why choose Zoolander as the best fashion movie? Why not use Pret-a-Porter? That famous finale would definitely break the internet hungry for those interested in taking the clothes off rather than being able to understand and wear them.


On a positive note, there were collections that were beautiful to the core and true to the traditions of the houses they came from.

And since the only one I've covered so far was the Dries van Noten presentation, here are the other favourites I wanted to share and, who knows where the luck finds me, wear some day.

Fall 2015 was the first Hermes affair for Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski who became the brand's creative director in July 2014 following the departure of Lemaire. And if there was a collection that could be used as a perfect example of respect for the house tradition transformed to suit the modern times, Hermes Fall 2015 would fit the description to a T.

It was such a labour of love! The clothes inspired by Hermes equestrian heritage and iconic scarves were luxurious, serene, chic and impeccable. It was truly Hermes, but also very Nadege. Each look was "signed off" with an "H" - like a secret mark, a stroke - light, modern, used as a button, necklace or a pin made of silver and precious marble sphere.

Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Hermes Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Christophe Lemaire also didn't disappoint. In fact, I don't believe it would be fair to use the term "disappointment" as a part of a sentence when talking about Lemaire's designs. Their (Lemaire is a creative tandem of Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran) vision of femininity emphasised by the masculine fabrics sheltering the bare skin was absolutely beautiful.

Lemaire Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2015 / fashioned by love
Admittedly, the hippy-go-folksy looks at Chloe didn't speak to me, but the rest of the collection left me wanting everything - the dresses, the ankle boots, the bags, the coats - those strong, sleek silhouettes were absolutely irresistible!

Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Chloe Fall 2015 / fashioned by love
Photo source: Chloe Fall 2015 backstage, Hermes Fall/Winter 2015, Lemaire Fall/Winter 2015, Chloe Fall/Winter 2015 via style.com

10 comments:

  1. great fashion shows, next season is gonna be just great!!

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  2. Oh dear, we certainly disagree on the Zoolander moment! My favourite film, I was having a bad week but this cheered me up and put a smile back on my face!

    Tara x

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  3. I have been in Paris for fashion week every year for the past three years and I've tried to stay as far from the media circus that Paris Fashion Week has become because, particularly as a blogger, I don't want to be part of perpetuating it. This is probably not very democratic of me to say but I think that if fashion becomes totally accessible in this way, there will be nothing left for us to aspire to, nothing left to dream of.
    xox,
    Cee

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  4. I couldnt' agree with you more on Chloe Fall 2015, the collection somehow managed to be both powerful and feminine, even if the latter didn't appeal to you quite as much. Also, whilst I'm here I'd love to tell you how much I admire you refreshing honesty with regard to the fashion industry and the shows that have been taking place - this post was brilliant to read through!

    Gabrielle | A Glass Of Ice

    x

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  5. Such a great fashion week rundown- I'd love to go to Paris and see the shows someday! :)

    -Ashley
    Le Stylo Rouge

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  6. Dear Natalia, thank you for selecting and showing the best parts of the PFW! But I can also imagine that the surrounding and sometimes even the frames of the shows are so to say a little bit confusing ...
    xx from Germany/Bavaria, Rena
    www.dressedwithsoul.com

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  7. I would gladly wear the entire Lemaire collection and the Chloe coats were outstanding too!

    Bella Pummarola

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  8. Я даже не смотрела этот фильм, думаю стоит исправить эту оплошность. Наташа, наряды которые ты отметила мне, безусловно, очень понравились, так элегантно и благородно!

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  9. The coats from Chloe almost make me wish it was fall so I could wear them...

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  10. I missed the debacle Natalia! That's why I love reading your posts! You keep me informed as to what is going on in fashion (in the present). It's sad, that this has made its way to Paris. It's like an infestation. I haven't put together my favorites yet, but more and more am I passing up collections. I love FUN, but there seems to be way too much of it. At points its a disgrace. Awesome post!
    http://www.averysweetblog.com/

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