Antonio Marras, Colour of Pomegranate & journey into the past

28/09/2015

Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Sometimes I refer to certain fashions, objects of art or photography as visual poetry because I find them particularly moving and having an ability to make the time stand still. Antonio Marras Spring/Summer 2016 collection was one of those moments. Even more so, it wasn't just visual poetry in itself, but a continuation of one - an hour-long film created by Sergei Paradjanov in 1968 and a series of collages, also by Paradjanov, which Marras turned to.

Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Originally titled "Sayat Nova", "The Colour of Pomegranate"* was inspired by the life and works of Arutyun Sayadyan also known as Sayat Nova, an 18-century Tiflis (Tbilisi)-born Armenian poet and musician who expressed his thoughts in Armenian, Georgian and Azerbaijani languages.

Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
The genius of Paradjanov was in making an audio and video painting portraying our life as if it was a kaleidoscope of emotions, memories, colours and sounds - all broken into splinters that somehow melt into one another, past into present, life into death... Watching it as a mesmerising, almost hypnotic experience that draws you in and doesn't require an explanation or words. There's no logic - only metaphors - about the wisdom, values, love, beauty. It's a little world, a whole life, encapsulated and preserved in a few short chapters.

Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
I remember the first time I watch The Colour of Pomegranate. My recollection of it now is very similar to the film - shreds and splashes of memories: a dark winter evening, the little me wearing a heavy coat that restricted my movements, my parents and I in a theatre watching Sofiko Chiaureli - Paradjanovs muse who played several characters in the film, and the screenshot of the pomegranates bleeding onto a white cloth... That was it. I was 6, or 7 at the most.

Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Naturally, I had no idea of Paradjanov or full understanding of his genius and unique vision. He spent a lot of time in prison, sentenced for being extremely talented, different, gay in a country that had no sex (seriously, we had a slogan "There's no sex in Russia") and shooting one his movies in Kiev, thus accused by the government for "raping 340 members of Communist Party and being an Georgia-born Armenian director using Ukranian studios to make a Russian movie based on a story by a Ukranian writer"** He was released following a petition signed by Godard, Truffaut, Rossellini, Antinioni, Fellini, Visconti, Aragon, Tarkovski and Vartanov***

Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
Visual poetry at Milan fashion week. Antonio Marras Spring 2016, Colour of Pomegranates & collages by Sergej Paradjanov / via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk british fashion blog
And it is because of those turbulent times we lived in, the Colour of Pomegranate suffered greatly, too. The original movie was longer, but Paradjanov was ordered to remaster it several times and, sadly, the cuttings didn't survive.



Still, what we have now is one of the most treasured masterpieces of the world's cinematography that serves as a palette so rich and vibrant that it fuels imagination and creativity. I loved the references Marras used for his collection - from the choice of patterns mimicking the traditional Armenian costumes to the embroidery and colours inspired by the film and the 2007 Le Magnifique exhibition that included 70 art collages created by Paradjanov between 1970 and 1990.

I was deeply touched and extremely grateful to him for bringing back a part of history that might not have been perfect, but is incredibly dear to my heart and soul, and focusing people's attention on the man who should never be forgotten, his talent and the movie everyone must see at least once in their life.



* the English translation "The colour of pomegranateS" of the title is slightly incorrect
** from the interview with Paradjanov recorded in Paris in 1988
*** biography via wikipedia / RIA News

Photo source: Antinio Marras Spring/Summer 2016 via vogue.com & stylebistro.com, inspiration boards made by me with screen shots of the Colour of Pomegranate and collages by Sergei Paradjanov

16 comments:

  1. I don't think I've watched this before but regardless I am enchanted by these designs and collection.

    Sxx
    www.daringcoco.com

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  2. this was truly fascinating--the collection, your recollections, as well as the film...simply breathtaking! i wish my mind thought the way yours does!

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  3. Im sorry to say that I didnt know that film but I think must be mesmerizing and intense to see. Love Marras collection too, Im fond of this designer as he comes from my country :) xo

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  4. Collage art is one of my favourite things - it was the only kind of art I was good at when I took lessons growing up, and I actually did it for quite a long time after (even covering a door in my parents' house.) So anything inspired by collage art captures my imagination and attention. I loved this collection but didn't know why - and now it's absolutely clear :)
    xox,
    Cee

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  5. This collection is absolutely amazing! Love all the beautiful fabrics and intricate ornaments!

    Bella Pummarola

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  6. Wow! Amazing pictures, collection and post!!

    ♘ www.sugarpopfashion.com ♘

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  7. I am absolutely loving some of these looks. I also love the selection of colors There's just something about olive green that makes me smile. Great post.

    Kia / KTS
    www.houseofkts.com

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  8. Весьма неординарная коллекция, немного театральная, но утонченная в то же время. Словом, я под впечатлением)

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  9. So interesting! The film sounds fascinating.

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  10. I feel so bad because I didn't know any of this! I loved this collection but I didn't really know the background. Thanks you so much, really, for sharing this. Stories such as this one need to be told and known bymore people!
    xx

    http://www.stylebydeb.com

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    Replies
    1. Thank you so much for stopping by, reading and absorbing! Really means a lot. x

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  11. omg!! just so visually stunning! :)

    Have a great week!
    Animated Confessions

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  12. Natalia, my heart skipped a beat with that half black half brown dress. OH MY WORD!
    http://www.averysweetblog.com/

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  13. Наташенька,дорогая здравствуйте!

    С самого начала как только увидела Ваш пост захотелось бросить всё и написать Вам слова моей самой искренней благодарностям за то что Вы сумели всё так увидеть и соединить в одно и написать так прекрасно!
    Коллегия Антонио Маррас совершенно великолепна во всех её деталях и нюансах!!!
    Пересмотрела снова вот уже в который раз фильм Сергея Параджанова.... Гениального художника в кинематографе, к сожалению неоцененного и не понятого в то наше время....(((
    Восхищена так же коллажами Параджанова!
    Спасибо преогромное за этот пост Вам, за последнее время ничего подобного в фэшн блогах не прочла!
    Ааааах, какой же умница этот Antonio Marras, что использовал историю и культуры и поэзии как идейную основу для своей коллекции!!!
    Возможно потомучто я русская и творчество Сергея Параджанова бесконечно трогает моё сердце,ну да это не важно.... Главное то, что истинное искусство остаётся на века, так же и в моде!!!
    Обнимаю Вас и благодарю!:)

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    Replies
    1. Спасибо огромное, Виолетта! Мне кажется, может быть тоже потому, что я русская и так или иначе жила в те времена, но эта коллекция тронет именно тех, кто родился в СССР. Я невероятно благодарна Марра су за вдохновение, за то, что он вот так, через моду, познакомил мир с гениальным человеком, даже если большинство запомнит только имя или только коллажи - это уже не важно.В конце концов, русская душа - потемки, ее только русские и поймут... (и под русскими я опять же подразумеваю всех, кто говорит по-русски)
      Желаю вам замечательных выходных!

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    2. О,ДА!
      Как Вы правы, и до чего же я обожаю Ваш блог!!!
      Мне даже уже стало казаться что я лично знакома с Вами:)))))

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