Star scented: finding your signature perfume


A 1975 Vogue perfume guide on how to choose a signature scent via
Perfume is something incredibly personal. Choosing one (or the one) is a complex process of selecting a bottle that would look beautiful and be pleasant to hold, notes that would reflect our mood, memories and experiences, dissolve into the skin and create a veil of aroma and mystery and, most importantly compliment our style  in a manner of a unique but invisible finishing touch.

How do you pick yours? Do you have a signature scent or a collection of fragrances that gets updates every seasons to suit latest fashions?

And, finally, would you or have you every considered finding a signature scent based on your star sign?

Admittedly, the idea crossed my mind a few times, but it was only after I came across an article from the 1975 issue of American Vogue that it finally clicked. It was such a curious read! And although certain perfumes were clearly chosen according to the astrological charts circa May 1975, the description of an ideal scent is still as relevant as ever.

It was a wonderful trip back in time picturing beauty rituals, scents, both modern and classic,  wondering about fragrances that disappeared and the ones we still know and love, fifty years on.

I hope you'll enjoy the transcript. I kept everything true to the original article and did my best to find every perfume mentioned in it including a few precious vintage ones. I made a small change by using models, not actresses as Vogue did, because it made more sense to me. And while checking on birthdays and matching names to their astrological signs I wondered what it would be like if the perfume ad campaigns would feature models based on their zodiac? After all, if there's a fragrance for each woman, why not cast the most perfect face to represent it?


"The planet that rules scents, emanations, and fragrances is Neptune, a planet whose expansive, limitless nature controls the spread of doors. Not to long ago, when Neptune occupied the demanding sign of Scorpio, the musk scents (desires) were the rage, as their sexual, hypnotic effects corresponded to the urgency of the Scorpio sign. Now, Neptune has moved into the refined, elegant sign of Sagittarius, while the planet Jupiter, the romantic sign, has moved into Aries. The harmonious relationship between the two planets will stimulate a lavish bloom in perfumes. Aries and Sagittarius, both fire signs, will enflame the world into a perfume efflorescence, as a result of Neptune's esoteric influence on each."

THE SCENTS THE SIGNS SELECT / by Marie Elise Crummere

The fire signs - Aries, Leo, Sagittarius - seek extrovert, vibrant scents.
The earth signs - Taurus, Virgo, Capricorn - prefer conservative, quieter perfumes.
The air signs - Gemini, Libra, Aquarius - search for light, fleeting, chic aromas.
The water signs - Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces - lean toward introverted, subtle, haunting, or clinging fragrances.

The sign of ARIES shows in a large head, an open manner; the flat planes in the face spread into a broad smile.

Aries scents: Aliage by Estee Lauder, Chanel No. 19 by Chanel

Model: Tatjana Patitz

The TAURIANS have retroussé noses (or have a ball-like ending at the tip of the nose), a sweet and demure guise. The eyes have a wide-open stare as if surprised.

Taurus scents: Amor Amor by Cacharel, 4711 by Maurer & Wirtz, Miss Dior by Christian Dior, Infini by Caron

Model: Laetitia Casta

A 1975 Vogue perfume guide on how to choose a signature scent via
The sign of GEMINI shows in the quickest smile, showing the gum line of the teeth; the most youthful countenance, with the hair having a natural curl at the temples.

Gemini Scents: Maja by Myrurgia, Calandre by Paco Rabanne, Cerissa by Revson

Models: Ana Beatriz Barros

The CANCERIANS have the palest colouring, drooping or pouting lips, teeth uneven in line. They have the most delicate, childish noses.

Cancer scents: Caleche by Hermes, Secret de Venus by Weil

Model: Gisele Bundchen

The LEOS have the highest lofty heads from temple to crown, the mark of pride, or hauteur. The shoulders are held high. The colouring is golden, vibrant, and warm. The smile seems meant for you.

Leo Scents: Chloe by Chloe (original perfume), Chanel No. 5 by Chanel

Model: Jourdan Dunn

The VIRGOANS have the longest upper lip, hinting of severity. The arch of the upper teeth is the narrowest. The eyes seem too close to the bridge of the nose, as they flit quickly over objects.

Virgo Scents: Chantilly by Houbigant, Tortue by Guerlain, White Shoulders by Evyan NYC  

Models: Claudia Schiffer

The social LIBRANS have the widest jawlines, giving their faces a square, balanced look. They have the widest, most innocent eyes. Their manner is peaceful.

Libra Scents: Farouche by Nina Ricci, 1000 by Jean Patou, Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent, Joy by Jean Patou

Models: Aymeline Valade

The SCORPIANS have Oriental eyelids, veiling the eyes, as the lids droop downwards at the outer corners. The nose is aggressively beaked. The lip development gives the mouth a voluptuousness.

Scorpio Scents: Courant by Helena Rubenstein, Fidji by Guy Laroche, Le De by Givenchy, Norell by Norell

Models: Vanessa Axente

The breezy SAGITTARIANS, with their easy smiles, show the largest teeth, as the central or front teeth stand forward. They have a throwaway elegance and extravagant manner. They have deep laugh lines in a long face.

Sagittarius Scents: Arpege by Lanvin, Ciara by Revlon, Vivara by Emilio Pucci

Models: Shalom Harlow

The sign of CAPRICORN shows in a pinched vertical line between the eye brows. Capricotns have alert, piercing eyes and a spreading nose; the teeth are strong and white. The smile is a surprise, humorous and charming.

Capricorn Scents: Bal a Versailles by Jean Desprez, Halston by Halston

Models: Christy Turlington

The AQUARIANS have unmistakable wavy lines, frowning upwards in the forehead. The eyes are quizzical. The large head is dome shaped. The manner cynical, yet tolerant. There are deep hollows in the face between the cheek and jawline.

Aquarius Scents: Ecusson by Jean D'Albret, Interlude by Frances Denney

Models: Sasha Pivovarova

The PISCEANS have putty-shaped noses the cling to the cheekbone defensively. Their manner is conceding. The eyes are starlike; the cheeks are full, even jowly.

Pisces Scents: Bakir by Germaine Monteil, Tabu by Dana

Models: Natalia Vodianova

Photo source: Laetitia Casta in Madame Figaro March 2013 (photography: Any Troost), Aymeline Valade in Sunday Telegraph Fashion SS 2015 (photography: Boo George), Shalom Harlow in In Style August 2004 (photography: Wolfgang Ludes), Natalia Vodianova in Vogue Paris November 2003 (photography: Inez & Vinoodh, styling: Carine Roitfeld), Sasha Pivovarova in Glamour France November 2014 (photography: Daniel Jackson), illustrations by Kelly Smith via Pinterest


  1. how interesting! i'm a libra! i've not smelled any of those, so i must seek them out.

    1. I was only familiar with a scent of Rive Gauche. Let me know if any of yours will speak to you. :) I am a taurus and like both Miss Dior and Cacharel, well, I did when I first smelled them anyway. :) Just think it's interesting to know which notes belong to which sign and use it as a starting point. x

  2. Обожаю этот аромат. Подумываю о повторной покупке

  3. This is so interesting! When I was in university, I had a part time job selling perfumes at a local department store; it was an industry I knew nothing about when I started, but one whose lessons have never left me. I can still recognise some fragrances with a single whiff, even ten years later. Because of my years selling perfumes, I developed strong opinions on scents and what I love. My signature is Gris Clair... by Serge Lutens, which I finally found about half a year ago after a long, long search. I'm a libra and I could never have thought of wearing Joy by Jean Patou in my younger days, but as I age, and I can see the appeal of it.

    1. Lutein certainly has the magic, I wear one of his perfumes, too. Have been for about 8 years now. I think working in the fragrance industry is so fascinating! I have a strong memory of scents, too, but mainly when they go with a certain memory of an event or a person. So in a way a perfume somebody wears will always remind me of this person regardless on where or on whom I smell it again :) and some fragrances just take me back in time to moments in my life like the one when I spilled a whole bottle of my mum's J'ai Ose! :D Since I saw you sharing Gris Clair on Instagram it always made me think of you. :)

  4. so amazing look ; -))


    i invite to me too

  5. This is so helpful as I feel everyone is looking for a new perfume for themselves or as a gift for the holidays!


  6. I swear by Sisley Soir de Lune :) It's the most beautiful scent ever.


  7. Какой приятный,просто восхитительный пост!:)))
    Ну вот теперь Вы меня ввергли в полное смятение мыслей и желаний,Наташенька!
    Я-Стрелец..... И те парфюмы,о которых пишется выше я пока ни разу не ощутила на своей коже....
    Ааааах..... КАК заманчиво:)))
    Спасибо за этот пост,чувствуется магия приближения Рождества!

    1. Как я рада, что не одна "смешиваю" Рождество с гороскопами :) Может быть, это русская привычка? :)

  8. I never considered grouping fragrances according to signs but since I believe in astrology, I accept the idea. My favourite perfumes are Angel by Thierry Mugler and Le Mâle (for men, but I use it) by Jean Paul Gaultier ;)


  9. How do I choose you ask? Simple, I don't. Unfortunately, my husband is sensitive to scent so over the years I've had to let go, but do get away with scent in hand cream which is always light and citrus. My mother always wore Chanel No. 5, but to me it is too heavy. I used to wear Nina Ricci L'air du Temps. Ah, those were the days.

    1. I am really sorry to hear, though it's understandable and not exactly a tragic loss - healthy and happy husbands are what really matters! I actually find No5 a bit heavy, too, in fact, it often gives me a migraine. :( Have you ever tried organic fragrances? They are non-toxic (which is what often causes adverse reactions - certain synthetics), so may work...? Just a thought.

  10. Gorgeous collage. I am a fire sign, I think I will have to re-think my scents! Another thing for my wishlist!
    xx, Ellle

    1. At least it will be fun to try something new, right? x

  11. That's interesting how it can be linked to the Zodiac. I love WISH by Lollia. I've been hearing really good things about Chloe.

  12. Great article!
    Have a nice evening!
    Angela Donava

  13. I loved it! It was like going down memory lane. I graduated from high school in 1975, when the original article was published. I still have a bottle of Joy (I'm a libra). Thank you for sharing it and for remembering all those great perfumes.