Mila Schon's gift to fashion

30/01/2016

Marisa Berenson wearing Mila Schon suit photographed by Henry Clarke for Vogue US 1968
Mila Schon may not be the person who came up with the concept of double-faced fabric, but she certainly was the one who perfected the material and truly made it her signature. She believed that any garment should look impeccable inside and out while remaining true to its geometry, clean cut and comfort.

The double-faced wools allowed the designer not only experiment with a rainbow of colours, but achieve the effect of invisible finishing as if everything was simply moulded together by magic - even better, worn two ways because suddenly both sides of the material were the right side. Naturally it was the ultimate answer for Schon who not only strived for the best in everything, but dislike any form of lining.

Mila Schon double-faced fabric samples / Mila Schon biography via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk
Unsatisfied with the choices presented to her at the time, in 1965 Mila approached Agnona with an idea of her own. It was yet another successful collaboration that began with a discussion and became a life-long friendship between the companies.

"At that time double-faced cashmere didn't exist. We created it. Above all we asked for it to be dyed in colours that were not just natural, but purple, sky blue... Agnona, Nattier and others were able to {give us that}"

Mila Schon double-faced fabric samples / Mila Schon biography via www.fashionedbylove.co.uk
"After drawing out the threads of a piece of cloth, it was opened along the perimeter at a certain distance from the edge. Then the two parts were sewn together, folding the separated part back over the inserted one." The precise technique that required certain quality of the material, both in weight and composition, could only be accomplished by skilled artisans, was never used for clothing before and more suitable for haute couture rather than ready-to-wear.

The months of work and experiments resulted a collection that looked flawless, refined and effortless. From that moment on the house of Mila Schon began producing its own fabrics starting with double-faced cashmere and later moving onto silk, then adding linens and velvets that were used for both Mila Schon ready-to-wear and interior collections. It was an innovation that opened another chapter in a history of fashion and took it a step closer towards the future.

Photo / reference source: quotations & fabric photos via Mila Schon, Marisa Berenson wearing Mila Schon suit photographed by Henry Clarke for Vogue US 1968, Mila Schon Fall/Winter 1968

4 comments:

  1. so amazing look ; -))


    xoxo


    i invite to me too


    www.live-style20.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete
  2. Fascinating! This gives me a deeper appreciation of double-faced fabric :)

    ReplyDelete
  3. I learned something new today! I didn't know about double faced fabric, let alone who it came from. So interesting.
    http://www.averysweetblog.com/

    ReplyDelete