a place where the tent-like dresses and boxy jackets were stemming from like never before. There was a lot of them, often looking very similar to one another as if made in the same factory from a set number of patterns - some left from last season, others - an archive of 1970s originals. It was a week of constant deja vu and je ne said qoui (well, I had to use some French, right?). It no longer confused, but left me with a feeling of a woman standing in front of her wardrobe thinking "what on Earth am I going to wear?" Yes, with a few exception I felt naked. Paris fashion week has always been a kind of date with one of my favourite cities in the whole world, this time our romantic rendezvous was rather... floppy. Just like those tent dresses, I guess.
On the other hand, it made my job of choosing favourite collections pretty easy. Having already written about Vionnet and Hermes that caressed imagination, I wanted to share a few others that made me dream and fall in love with fashion all over again.
Even if I wasn't told about Albert Kriemler's trip to Africa, it would be easy to see the inspiration in the prints, tribal jewellery, rich textures, very clever leather and knit work, and intensely gorgeous colours in every shade of the amber sunsets and enchanting dunes. Just like all Akris collection, this Fall/Winter was minimal in form, incredibly luxurious in detail - the snake skin mimicking leather work alone is out of this world, and, lets not forget, designed with a thought of enhancing female body whatever the shape. Just imagine yourself wearing these clothes... Ah, that would be a dream come true!
Unlike Akris that was as easy to read as a kindergarten alphabet, Chalayan Fall/Winter came in puzzles. Not that any additional info was needed to make me adore these looks, especially the very-very clever jacket-cardigan idea (I could live in it!), but in case you are making notes (and because I grew up with the magazine as my ultimate style companion), Hussein Chalayan was inspired by Germany and Burda patterns. Interesting, creative, special, with a little nostalgia, this collection may not please everyone, but it did me (and when it comes to fashion I am not that easy to satisfy)...
Lagerfeld gave us 93 looks to satisfy every whim and occasion. Normally a number like this would leave me overwhelmed just thinking of it. However, this time felt different and I am not even sure why. All I know is that the pearls are back in handfuls and it's virtually impossible not to love Chanel. The "quilted" eye make-up that made me think of honey combs and cheetahs deserves its own sentence.
This season Dries van Noten heroine was an embodiment of Nietzsche's "woman as the most dangerous plaything" His was a strong and independent creature that concealed her powerful femininity under a masculine suit yet left a few gentle hints with pearls (yes, they definitely are back!), furs and beautiful jewellery resting against bare skin. Fire and ice, cold and hot, danger and play. And so much more left for imagination and joy of dressing up!
Finishing with Haider Ackermann collection suddenly made me realise that all my Paris fashion week favourites are not actually French... Kriemler is Swiss, Lagerfeld, who really is a star from another Galaxy - German, Chalayan - British/Turkish Cypriot, van Noten - Belgian and Columbian-born Ackermann lived most of his life in Netherlands (plus France and Belgium). And yet they are the ones who make me look forward to each season with excitement. To me, Ackermann is one of the most special people out there. It's about the cut, the fit, the fabrics that he drapes in this opulent, but modern way, the most amazing ankle-grazing coats and jackets that seemed to mould around the body flawlessly.
Photo source: Chanel Fall/Winter 2016, Akris Fall/Winter 2016, Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2016, Haider Ackermann Fall/Winter 2016 via Vogue Runway & The Impressions